I had to use long nose pliers to get the stuff out. There was also a bunch of coins, paper clips, hair, hairpins, etc. There was all kinds of matter in there none the least of which was an entire sock. Low and behold, this thing was so clogged up with junk I could not believe it. In so doing, I had to disconnect the long drain line (which I stuck some electrical fish tape through just to make sure it was clear.) Then, I took a very good hard look into the black rubber drum drain tube. I asked myself if I “…cleaned out all the lines…the long drain line, the pump itself, double checked the impeller, and the short (black rubber corrugated flexible tube leading directly from the wash drum into the pump/motor assembly.” In short, I finally decided to remove the pump/motor assembly. Just wanted to drop you a note to let you know that, after doing what I usually do with such matters, I took a deep breath, took a step back from the problem, then retraced the steps outlined in above and in my technical manual. I have no problem with this but, how do you know which part is bad? How can one tell which to replace? I would love to go out and buy the pressure switch now, replace it and have it be done. So, what do I do now? I noticed your remarks about the f21 code, and you seem to skip the pump replacement and go right to the “pressure switch” replacement. Though I did not watch the entire load, with about 25 showing on the screen, the F21 fault code re-appeared. So, I decided to run a full load on the “normal” setting. I then reinserted the filter, and was able to successfully run a very short (apparent 12 minute) “rinse/spin” cycle. ![]() The impeller seemed to be movable with my pinky, so I did not necessarily feel that the pump was shot. I then also took a wet-dry shop vac, sucked out the rubber main drum drain hose, and was able to stick my finger into the pump motor and feel the impeller. There were all kinds of clumps of lint in there, a quarter, a dime, hairpins, a sprinkler insert for an outside sprinkler head, all of which was removed. I took what I considered to be a conservative step, accessed the pump, removed the filter and it was (in my layman’s opinion) a mess. OK, I have had the same problem as above. Post navigation ← Weird Timer Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Dryer with Electronic Control Samurai Fixit Cam →ĩ thoughts on “ Whirlpool Duet Washer with F-21 Fault Code” This entry was posted in Washer Repair on Septemby Samurai Appliance Repair Man. To learn more about your washing machine, or to order parts, click here. Especially after I replaced the water level switch whereupon appliantological harmony was restored. The pressure switch is right there on top, as seen in the picture below:Īnyway, I plugged the washer back in and, lo!, the washer did enter diagnostic mode and the people did sing and the Lord did grin. To get to it, remove the top panel by taking out the three screws in the back of the washer. Using my keen Samurai Insight®, I unplugged the washer and removed the molex connector from the water level switch (also called a pressure switch). I couldn’t even get the control board to go into diagnostic mode. The vast majority of the time, I’d arrive and all the washer would do is drain and flash F-21 in the display. I’ve worked on dozens of these washers and have only found the above service manual solution to apply once or twice. ![]() If the above does not correct the problem, go to step 7. Check the drain pump filter for foreign objects.Ħ. Check the electrical connections at the pump and make sureĤ. ![]() Check the drain hose and make sure it is not plugged orģ. PAUSE/CANCEL two times to clear the display.ġ. NOTES:After 4 minutes the “Sd” error will be displayed, thenĤ minutes later the “F/21” error code will be displayed. If the drain time exceeds 8 minutes the water valves turn off. Here’s an excerpt from the service manual on this fault code: This problem is a good illustration of how there’s just no substitute for actual hand-to-hand combat with broken appliances.
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